Skip to main content

The best method of seed started I've learned yet.

So I've learned a new method of seed starting through the internet and want to help spread the word on how great of a method it is.  I learned this method from a youtube video series I saw titled "Fork to Fork" The series was done by this particular Englishman and his family showing you how to grow vegetables and then how to harvest and cook them with simple methods and recipes.  Highly informative and educational. Check it out.

Anyway here is what I gathered from it:

When we usually plant seeds we push them down into the soil a measure distance and then cover back up with soil. That has been the tried and tested method passed down the years. But it doesn't have to be that way. Especially when starting your seeds indoors.  Outdoors I believe the method still stands because of weather conditions and animals/birds etc.

But indoors it doesn't have to be.  And one of the reasons it doesn't is because the soil that is covering the seeds often acts as a barrier for the seeds to pop up through the soil.  See often times when soil is given moisture and then dries out it creates a caked layer that tends to be hard to push through by a tender plant.

The new method to seed starting goes like this.. Place a nice layer of potting soil down first in your pods or pots.  I like to use ProMix but any potting mix should do.  Once you have your soil down go ahead and just place your seed(s) on top of the soil.  Like shown in the picture below. You can see a pepper seed (looks like a minature potato chip). 
Once I had my seeds in place I watered the soil and seed carefully not to float the seeds away.  You'll understand why I water the seeds on top in just a moment. 

Once you have wet soil and a wet seed I carefully layered on top of the seed and soil a dose of vermiculite to cover the seed. The vermiculite will act as a soil substitute that won't cake together to barrier the growing seed and the vermiculite is also great at holding moisture. 

Once I've covered all the seeds with vermiculite I water in again. This way I know both the soil, seed and vermiculate have adequate water to start.  If I just waited to the end to water the soil might not get a good amount of moisture do the moisture holding qualities of the vermiculite.

Now the way I start seeds is indoors with a heat mat, lights, and a hydrofarm germination dome.  I've started seeds a total of four times in the past with reasonably high sucess rates and generally quick germination time periods of a week or so.  I thought that was pretty good.. Using this new method with vermiculite and seeds on top of the soil I saw results in TWO days. Yes you read that right.. And I don't just mean the squashes and tomatoes. 

I've seen a much higher sucess rate of the seedlings as well.  Usually I'd get 4 of 6 to pop up, but this time I'm seeing 5 of 6 and 6 of 6.  In fact it's so much faster than I expected that I am running out of space to put all the of the transplants from pods to pots.

I belive the plants in this picture are Kale (left row) and Romanesco (center row).  Now don't get me wrong this isn't going to work for every plant/seed.  I have certain rows that haven't showed signs of life yet. But I'm hopeful and positive that I'll get something.  Just can't get over how quickly the results were there.

I challenge you to try it yourself.  Vermiculite and lights can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, Garden stores etc.  The heat mat and hydrofarm I purchased on Amazon.  As I said before I don't think that it has to be under lights and heat mat for this to work but definately will improve your wait time and plant size.  For extra stregth I have a small fan to add a bit of wind resistance to my plants.  I've noticed it does a good job strengthening them for the great outdoors.

I noticed when transplanting the quicker germinating plants that their roots could travel easier as well because I wasn't pushing down the soil after placing a seed in the soil.. This gives the plant an easier time to spread their roots further and deeper.  All good things for a health plant.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Pest Control. My methods of extermination.(Gophers mainly)

So if you've seen some of my past posts you know that I've had encounters with possums and raccoons in my backyard garden. I've trapped 3 raccoons and eliminated 2 possums but gophers had been a problem in the past I wasn't really willing to tackle. At least until recently. The gophers in my backyard alley were ruining plants and soil everywhere. I'd had enough. So after some serious research I chose my weapon.  A Victor Black Box Gopher trap.  The amazon reviews were great and it was under $15. Now as you see the trap here it's set and ready to go. You would just point that end (the open end) towards an open tunnel.  It works like a reverse mouse trap, instead of pinning a rodent down it pulls them up and pins them to the roof of the trap.  The trigger is that coat hanger looking metal piece in the middle.  It packs quite a punch when triggered. Now you can't just look for an open hole and stick it in front of it. I watched YouTube for about an ho

Tomatillo stages

Just a few shots of my juvenile tomatillo plants.  Above is what the tiny tomatillo starts out like. It will quickly grow and expand out. It's good to have some kind of netting, fencing or string because the stalks of the tomatillos tend to weaken with the rising weight of ripening tomatillos. I used some clothesline to help guide my young plant towards my fence in hopes that I can weave branches for structure. I think the smaller plant may be a purple tomatillo plant.  It would be a welcomed color change from all the greens and yellows.

Whiskey Barrel planter project

So our new neighbor that just moved in has a job at a brewery and said he could get these whiskey barrels for free. I thought what a great planter.  So this past Saturday I set about making them into planters.  Here is how I made them. After cutting it in half with a hand saw (Didn't have any power tools and could use the exercise), we set about attaching casters to make the planters mobile.  I purchased casters from Home Depot and purposely bought one caster that had a stopper in case our planter was parked on anything with an incline.  We ended up using a piece of wood as a spacer to ensure that our casters where high enough to make clearance.  The one being drilled in the photo is the one with the brakes. After casters were installed we drilled (I say we cuz I was helped by my trusty neighbor Erik) holes in the bottom for drainage. Instead of drilling a few large holes I drilled a lot of small holes.  This way I'd ensure proper drainage and also provide a hole size